Bijoux Pierrette d'Entremont ~ Culture freshwater pearls
updated -April 2, 2007(show me the grades)
In this section, I will try to concentrate on freshwater cultured pearls. There are many websites that have detailed information about Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea cultured pearls (saltwater cultured in various oyster species). This will just be a broad introduction ment to clarify differences as well as serve as a base in freshwater cultured pearls.
INTRODUCTION: Freshwater (mussel) cultured pearls, as with saltwater oyster cultured pearls, include several factors to determine their quality and their value: luster, nacre quality, surface quality/texture, color, shape, size and matching. Though there is no clear grading system for cultured pearls, a combination of these characteristics decides the overall quality and value of pearls.
HISTORY: In recent years, there have been many advances and changes in freshwater pearls and in the culturing techniques that produce them. So much so, in fact, that if one does not keep informed of current yearly trends, new developments will surely be missed. The days of those small "crispy" freshwater pearls are all but ancient history and the market has undergone waves of changes . However, with a few decades under its' belt this new freshwater pearl industry is still misunderstood by many cultured pearl consumers as well as some jewelers and jewelry retailers. The traditional white, round, pearl, though still classical and popular has been joined by many new shapes and colors as well as increasingly larger sized freshwater pearls.
A major shift has been the demise of the traditional japanese freshwater pearls from Lake Biwa in Japan. Unfortunately, with the increase in polution, this lake was no longer viable for culture. China, with a new opportunity began producing better and better quality freshwater pearls. Since the early 1990s, China's freshwater cultured pearl production has increased significantly along with the quality and variety of pearls it produces.
VALUE: As with its' saltwater cousin, freshwater pearl value is determined by beauty and rarity. However, unlike oyster cultured pearls, the freshwater mussel Round yields remain low at 3 percent, with near round pearls at about 5 percent, and jewelry-quality oval/rice pearls around 15 percent. Oval/rice pearls with ridges and button-shaped pearls with very low luster make up the remaining 77 percent.
The great value of freshwater pearls over saltwater pearls (this is an opinion) lies in some of the following aspects:
- Thickness of nacre: In contrast to saltwater cultured pearls, freshwater cultured pearls are tissue nucleated (there is no bead). This is a big selling point of freshwater pearls. the risk of thin nacre wearing off over time is not an issue.
- Colors: Due to the presence of trace metal elements such as copper, silver, natrium and zinc, the colors of freshwater pearls are very diverse. Naturally ranging from white, to peach, to pink and purple.
- Shapes: Recent years has seen the marketing of various shapes; round, drop, button, oval, semi-round, ringed, baroque and semi-baroque, but coin, diamond and cross shapes are also present. The latter being human-aided with shaped implants. Rounds, however, are always popular and freshwaters are giving traditional saltwaters competition.
- Longer cultivation period: Freshwater pearls are not usually implanted with a bead (bead nucleated), therefore take from around 3 years to as long as 5 to 6 years before they are ready for harvest. This compares to South Sea pearls and Tahitian pearls at 2 to 3 years and Akoya pearls at less than 2 years.
- Comparable sizes: Due to changes in farming techniques and longer cultivation periods, the sizes of freshwater pearls are increasing. Sizes can now be found in 9mm to 16mm.
- Comparable quality: The shapes, surface and luster of the new Chinese production is superb. Top quality freshwater pearls are now round enough, blemish-free enough and lustrous enough to pass as Japanese Akoya and South Sea pearls to the untrained eye. A top quality freshwater pearl necklace is a great alternative for many who are looking for good value and fine quality.
- Most competitive price: With Improvement of its cultivation methods and processing techniques, along with low labor costs and vast number of unpolluted lakes, China has created a pearl industry that can offer unrivaled prices.
Though there is no universal grading system though we've tried to be honest and true to the general quality pyramid. Here, at Bijoux Pierrette d'Entremont, we only buy A to AAA quality pearls with most designs made from A+ to AA. Our grade definitions are as follows:
| AAA | Perfectly Round to the Eye; Excellent Luster; Clean Nacre with 95% or more Inclusion Free Surface; Excellent Matching; Top 1%-2% of a Pearl Farm's Harvest. |  |
| AA+ | Visibly Round; Excellent Luster; Clean Nacre of 90-95% Inclusion Free Surface; Excellent Matching; Top 5% of a Pearl Farm's Harvest. |  |
| AA | Near to off Round and symetrical oval; Good Luster, Good Nacre of 80-90% Inclusion Free Surface; Good Matching; Top 15%-20% of a Pearl Farm's Harvest. |  |
| A/A+ | Off round to Baroque ; Moderate Luster; Medium Nacre of 70% Inclusion Free Surface; Good/Moderate Matching. |  |
| A | Very off Round to Baroque; Moderate/Low Luster; Moderate to Heavily Blemished Nacre; Moderate Matching. |  |
Commercial/Beading Quality |
Asymmetrical Baroque; Moderate/Low Luster; Heavily Blemished Nacre; Heavy Inclusions; Moderate/Poor Matching. |  |
** Pearls that do not fall into the ranking categories above are typically either sold in beading stores, or simply stripped of their nacre, which is then ground to be used in makeup and other beautifying aids. Here, at Bijoux Pierrette d'Entremont, we only buy A to AAA quality pearls with most designs made from A+ to AA+.
February 2007 Note:
Freshadama Pearls. I've been asked once about these in Nova Scotia. This actually means a lot of buzz if I take the whole of North America into consideration. The term Freshadama is a spin on the Japanese term Hanadama. Hanadama akoya pearls are the best of the best. There is nothing better. A strand must be accompanied by a certificate of The Pearl Science Laboratory of Japan. Freshadama pearls are the like in freshwater cultured pearls. We do not carry such perfection but you may want to try a Google search. Expect to pay a premium for such rare cultured freshwater pearls.
Pierrette d'Entremont -Bijoux Pierrette d'Entremont
Page References:
The Gemological Institute of AMERICA, 1999. Pearls Course; Freshwater Cultured Pearls. book 8.
Grace Pearl: About Freshwater Pearls
Mondera: Pearl Glossary
Premium Pearl: Pearl Quality and Grading
Pearl Paradise: Freshwater Pearl Grading