| Cultured pearl, gemstone and metals information
I felt it important to include information about our materials.
* PEARLS: All pearls in my designs are real cultured pearls. I have a great interest in cultured pearls and I adore working them and their many shapes, colours and types. I have my GIA Pearls Certificate and I'm consistently reading. All of our cultured freshwater pearls come from China, Japan or America, with the majority coming from China. Unless noted, pearls are freshwater cultured (FWP). The general shapes and sizes of freshwater pearls (FWP) are explained on this page. Since pearls are natural, each and every strand will have some variations. (each pearl is unique though the more matched the more valuable). I also occasionally use saltwater cultured pearls. These will be noted and will be Akoya pearls (China and Japan), South Seas and/or Tahitian cultured pearls.
Pearl Value Factors (please read below and the check out our representation of grades for our freshwater pearls)
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has defined seven factors which determine value of pearls. I use these grading guidelines as the base for our grades and pricing. These value factors are: Luster, Size, Shape, Color, Surface Quality, Nacre Quality, and Matching. Value cannot be judged on just one or two of these factors, but by a combination of them.
LUSTRE
Luster (lustre) is one of the most important of all factors, this alone will tell you much about the development of the pearl. Luster is the product of many overlapping layers of nacre, the deeper the luster the thicker the layers. The better the reflection of objects, the better the luster.
Pearls with low luster appear matte or chalky, rather than brilliant and shiny. The pearls we use at Bijoux Pierrette d'Entremont are high quality freshwater pearls with a great degree of lustre our freshwater pearl grades .
SIZE
Throughout the world, pearl size is measured in millimeters (mm). Generally the larger the pearl the higher the value, but only if it is in the same quality range (all other value or grading factors being equal).
SHAPE
Pearl experts generally divide pearl shapes into three broad categories, based on their overall characteristics:
- Spherical shapes are perfectly round or nearly round. They are the "classic" pearl shape that is most familiar to people.
- Symmetrical shapes are are balanced and regular. If you sliced this pearl in half, each half would be a near mirror-image of the other half.
- Baroque shapes are irregular or abstract. They are non-symmetrical in nature.
Shapes are then placed in sub-categories, Round, Near Round: (Sperical shapes) Oval (potato Shape), Button, drop: (Symetrical shapes) Semi Baroque and Baroque: (Baroque shapes) . In general the rounder the pearl the more valuable it is.
To further complicate the matter, within these basic categories and definitions, there can be many variations. Some pearls, for example, develop with one or more grooves or rings encircling them. These pearls are known as ringed or circled pearls . This adjective can be attached to the primary shape in order to more fully describe the pearl, such as "circled round" or "ringed oval."
Then, quickly, the curve balls. Some popular freshwater cultured pearls do have a nucleus. These include coin, square, diamond, cross and 'fireball' shapes. Some of these ball-with-tail pearls can look similar to saltwater cultured pearls, beware. We may soon find round, nucleated freshwater pearls that are difficult to differentiate.
Finally, there are the "keshi". Keshi is a term meaning poppy seed, usually used for 'accidental or random' saltwater pearls that form around little bits of the culture process (bits of tissue, empty pearl sac if a bead is expelled). For freshwater pearls, this term is somewhat incorrect. "Petal Keshi" are also called reborn pearls or regenerated. COLOR
The color of pearls are determined by the color of the inner shell of the oyster, clam. mussel or other mollusk (yes, many organisms can produce pearls!). Color is usually a minor factor in determining value. Pearls can also be dyed (bright colors are more common in commercial quality). One of the most important things about color is the proper matching to ensure a consistent appearance. At Bijoux Pierrette d'Entremont we will disclose if pearls have been irradiated or dyed. Please ask is you are unsure.
SURFACE QUALITY
Due to the fact that pearls are organic gems, it is extremely important to understand this value factor. This is not a manufactured item. Most pearls have bumps, grooves, pits, dents, etc. which are natural. On the other hand, scratches, cracks, chips and so forth are indications of lower quality. One must remember that pearls are unique and that even those necklaces costing thousands of dollars will have some minor defects.
NACRE
Please note a paragraph above that freshwater pearls are usually not bead-nucleated. Most are nearly all nacre. By buying a high quality freshwater pearl piece, one can assume lifelong wear. Luster, however, is a good indication of the nacre quality, a deeper luster indicates a higher quality pearl.
MATCHING
Matching is the most important aspect of visual value, naturally the better matched, the higher the value. Since these are organic gems and no two pearls are exactly the same, matching a complete necklace of the same size or matching a graduated necklace requires much time and effort, thus the better matched the higher the value. We spend a lot of time matching our pearls. Lifting, turning, changing lights ..especially for earrings and sets.
* GEMSTONES: All of the gemstones I use in my designs are real. I choose my gemstones very carefully. Requesting well faceted stones that are of good quality, fine colour and that match my design ideas. I buy my gemstone beads and cut stones from various places but try to always buy from respected manufacturers. Having nearly 10 years of experience and my A.J.P. (Accredited Jewelry Professional) from GIA I know the values, characteristics and grades of gemstones. I do not use synthetic glass quartz "cherry/strawberry/lemon.. quartz", I also don't use "candy jade". I will also use accurate terms. I try to use untreated stones as often as possible, though accepted heat treaments and dyeing occur frequently and are to be expected.
* PRECIOUS METALS: I use sterling silver or 14K gold unless otherwise noted. My bails, handforged earrings wires and handmade chains are always handcrafted in my own studio. I import sterling silver components such as toggle clasps and 'bali' beads directly from an artisan and his family in Bali, Indonesia. Most other components are manufactured in North America.
Pierrette d'Entremont
References:
Pearl Shapes At Pearl-Guide.com
GIA Pearls Course literature
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